THE
WORLD'S BEST
FRENCH TOAST
French
toast - as we know it - was almost certainly introduced
to the USA by the Creoles in New Orleans. The date
is uncertain, but I have a recipe dating from the
Civil War Era. It originated as a dish called "Pain
Perdu" (Lost Bread) and it was designed as a way
to utilize stale bread...really stale bread. The recipe
calls for soaking the bread in an egg, sugar, orange
flower water and brandy mix for at least 30 minutes.
I'll print the original recipe at the end of this
Newsletter, but first I'm gonna tell you a little
about French Toast and give you my recipe for "THE
WORLD'S BEST FRENCH TOAST" (which was inspired by
the Creole version of "Pain Perdu"), stuffed with
cream cheese and topped with bananas and pecans flambé
in Orange Liqueur. If you want to make good French
toast you have to use some good bread and it absolutely
cannot be real fresh bread. At Mama's if we have to
use real fresh bread we slice it and leave it out,
uncovered for at least a couple of hours. If you have
a good Jewish bakery near you get some Challah (egg
bread) I think it's the perfect bread for my French
Toast. Unfortunately we don't have any such bakeries
in Cabo so we have a local bakery make us a pretty
good, slightly sweetened, dense white bread. Second,
you have to thin the beaten eggs with some other liquid
(water, milk, cream, juice or liqueurs all work well).
If you just use just straight beaten eggs they will
be so thick that they will merely coat the bread and
not soak into it. Lastly, you have to cook the bread
at the proper temperature. Too hot and the outside
will be done and the inside will be a raw, soggy egg
soaked mess. Too low a temp and the outside will not
crisp up to a beautiful golden brown. Okay, here's
my recipe.
Batter/Toast
- Parts List
bread
One
loaf of unsliced bread. Unsliced bread is mandatory
for stuffing. You could just put some cheese between
two slices of bread but it will be way too thick and
the cheese won't melt properly and the inside will be
uncooked and I just don't like the idea. I suggest some
sort of white bread. Challah (egg bread) would be my
first choice and I definitely don't recommend any heavy
dark bread. Sweet French or Italian or whatever white
loaf your local bakery has will probably work great.
batter
Just
some beaten eggs with a little bit of added liquid (1
or 2 tablespoons per egg). milk is what I use, but you
can use cream or some orange juice or water. If you
want you can add some orange or lemon zest and/or a
little vanilla...maybe a shot of rum or orange liqueur.
cream
cheese
You
may see some yuppie chefs calling for French toast with
brie or some other pricey cheese...ignore them. Cream
cheese works great although some sweetened riccotta
works just as well.
Okay,
let's make some French Toast!
You're probably gonna need a bread knife here. Slice
(a very, very thin slice) down through the loaf almost
- but not quite all the way through. Make the next slice
just as thin but go all the way through. You should
now have a slice of bread that you can open like a book.
If you don't, reread the instructions and try again.
When you finally get the bread right, place a slice
of cream cheese (or spread some riccotta) between the
book cover. Keep doing this 'til you have enough slices
for everybody. Three slices is a more than generous
portion and I can barely eat two. Dip the prepared bread
into the batter and make sure it soaks it up. Hold it
under for a while. You want the batter to soak into
the bread - not just coat it. Toss the battered bread
into a generously buttered (you can use margarine) pan
or onto a griddle and cook it over no more than medium
heat until it's golden brown. Turn it over and do the
same to the other side. If you got it right the bread
should be moist (but not raw and runny) all the way
through and the cheese should be hot and softened. Hey,
you just made some terrific French toast, but you should
have made the topping first.
Here's the recipe for the topping.
Fruit
and Liqueur Topping - Parts List
bananas
one
small banana (sliced into rounds) per person sounds
about right
pecans
chopped
into peanut sized pieces, about a tablespoon or two
per serving. Walnuts work great, taste and look just
the same. I use pecans because it sounds a little fancier
on the menu.
sugar
...a
lot. I use regular granulated sugar but brown raw sugar
would probably be wonderful.
butter
...a
lot, but you can use margarine. No one will know and
margarine doesn't burn as easily as the butter.
orange
liqueur
let
your conscience be your guide, but I use about a half
shot per serving. If you have too much money use Grand
Marnier, but any Orange liqueur will do.
orange
juice
about
half a small glass per serving.
Start
the bananas frying in a hot pan with lots of butter.
When the bananas start to show a little color add the
sugar - enough to absorb most of the butter. Stir until
the sugar has melted and add the liqueur. A word of
caution here - remove the pan from the flame before
you add the liqueur. The liqueur is highly flammable
and it can catch fire, travel up the liqueur and set
the bottle on fire. Then you're standing there looking
silly with a lit Molotov cocktail in your hand. You
panic and drop the bottle - the bottle breaks, spreading
burning Grand Marnier across your kitchen, setting the
curtains on fire, burning down your house and you get
really mad at me for not warning you and I just don't
need anyone else mad at me right now. If you have an
electric stove you'll have to set the liqueur aflame
with a cigarette lighter or a flint and rock or something.
When the flame dies down add the pecans and enough orange
juice to make a syrupy mix to put over your French toast.
If you have a whole bunch of pretty mint growing in
your back yard - a sprig of mint and some powdered sugar
makes the perfect garnish. If not, an orange slice looks
pretty good, too. Let me know how it turns out.
I
promised to give you the original "Pain Perdu" recipe
and here it is. This is reprinted without permission
from a hundred year old cookbook put out by the "Picayune"
in New Orleans. The recipe was old then and still is.
Pain
Perdu
(lost bread)
5
Eggs
2 Tablespoons of Orange Flower Water
1/2 Cup of Sugar
Slices of Stale Bread
The Finely Grated Zest of a Lemon
3 Tablespoons of Brandy (if Desired)
The
Creoles utilize left-over stale bread in that delightful
breakfast relish known as "Pain Perdu". Break the eggs
into a bowl, beat them till very light, add the Orange
Flower Water and the Brandy, if desired, and then add
the sugar and beat thoroughly. Add the grated zest of
a lemon, mix well, and then cut the bread into slices
or round pieces, taking off the crust, or still again
into diamond shapes, and soak them well for a half an
hour in the mixture. Have ready a frying pan of boiling
lard, lay in the bread, and fry to a golden brown. Lift
the slices out with a skimmer, and drain on brown paper
in the mouth of the oven. Then place on a hot dish,
sprinkle with powdered sugar, as you would fritters,
add a little grated nutmeg, if desired, and serve hot.
