Something a little different..
I originally started this newsletter in self defense because
I got really tired of answering so many individual requests
for salsa recipes. Because my restaurant has a salsa
bar with 30 or 40 salsas every day, I got the reputation
around Cabo as being the Salsa guy. So for the first
couple of years I did nothing but salsa recipes. That
led to a show on the food network where I was dubbed the ‘Salsa
King’ by the celebrity chef du jour. That led
to appearances on TV in Reno where I demonstrated salsa
making techniques in my disguise as ‘THE SALSA KING’. Then
someone at chile-pepper magazine decided to do a seven
page article on me called ‘Meet the Salsa King’ I
guess someone at ABC-TV in Chicago saw the article because
they got in touch with me and came down and shot an interview
that was shown in Chicago on Super Bowl Sunday. I
even get asked for my autograph occasionally. So
I may be the ‘Salsa King’ in Reno and Chicago
but you guys know I’m just an old hippie who is a
real good cook and has a no bullshit attitude about food. Anyway,
as I grew bored writing about salsas and got more and more
inquiries about Mexican food in general, the newsletter
seemed to evolve into nothing more than an occasional recipe
and me attacking all those self-proclaimed ‘Celebrity’chefs
and pushing my own cooking philosophy ……..“Cooking
is fun and cooking is easy…………if
it were difficult or took any brains at all, the human
race would have died out centuries ago”
For most of my restaurant life I have had award winning
breakfast restaurants. Mama’s Royal Café has won ‘Best
Of’ awards in Marin County, Sonoma, Berkeley, and Julian
California. I was recently told by the lady who does
the restaurant reviews for the prestigious Frommer’s
guide that Mama’s in Cabo was in her estimation the
best breakfast place in the whole country. The best place
in a whole country—now that’s pretty cool. Which
leads us, in a round about way, to the subject of this newsletter.
My favorite breakfast
At Mama’s we’re pretty high-toned – serving
8 or 9 variations of eggs Benedict including one that uses
crab cakes in place of English muffins. We have crepes
Florentine with hollandaise sauce, a jillion omelets, French
toast stuffed with cream cheese and topped with mangoes and
pecans flambé in orange liqueur – and if you
feel like something Mexican we make Huevos Divorciados or
Encobijadas, Tortillas de huevo and a raft of other
regional dishes. We squeeze all our own juices and
grind our own coffee. I do all that fancy stuff
for you guys but my own favorite breakfast is plain simple
hash and eggs with some home-fries and a well-toasted English
muffin. Imagine my shock and disappointment when I
got to Mexico and discovered there isn’t even a word
for ‘hash’ in Spanish. What’s more
there is no such thing as corned beef in Mexico. After
I’d been here for a few years, a local company started
importing Corned beef from the US. I was all over that
in a hot New York minute. In no time at all my menu
featured “THE ONLY HOME-MADE CORNED BEEF HASH
IN THE WHOLE DAMN COUNTRY” Pretty cool, eh? Then
about a year or so ago you guys had a ‘Mad Cow’ scare
and Mexico banned the import of US beef. What a bummer! I
started making hash out of the pot roast we used for machaca. It
was good and is still on my menu but ‘Roast Beef Hash’ just
doesn’t have the same customer appeal as the traditional ‘corned
beef hash’ – although I still had the only hash
in Cabo. About a year later a local supermarket started
selling those little cans of corned beef that you open with
a key that’s stuck to the top of the can. I
figgered ‘what the hell’ and gave it a try. For
dinner or for hot sandwiches it wasn’t near as good
as the real homemade but in my hash it was virtually indistinguishable
from the real deal. As a matter of fact I have had
more requests for the recipe since I started using the canned.
There are probably as many recipes for hash as there are
people making hash. I personally have made hash
from corned beef, pastrami, pot roast, left over pork chops,
chicken, turkey, fish, crab and my very favorite - ham. I
have an old friend who has a popular restaurant in Sonoma
Calif. His homemade corned beef hash features the meat
and potatoes cut into large cubes (about the size of the
dice in a monopoly game). It’s good but I much
prefer the meat to be chopped (or shredded and chopped) very
fine and the potatoes also very fine (even coarsely mashed). I
use no herbs or weird spices in my hash. I also don’t
add onions or peppers, but I won’t object if you do. I
use just meat, potatoes, salt, black pepper and chopped parsley
and I think it’s the best around. I do use some
garlic in the crab hash and a little chopped fresh basil
in the chicken hash. The following recipe is the way
I’m now making it at the restaurant using canned corned
beef. So here’s how to make some great homemade
corned beef hash without having to cook up a big old brisket – and
you can make it on the spur of the moment (if you happen
to have a leftover potato sitting around).
Quick and easy corned beef hash
Parts list
1 can of corned beef………………….I
shred it with my fingers , then chop it pretty fine
Cooked potato…………………………You
want the same amount of potatoes as meat At the restaurant
I use the boiled potatoes I have on hand for home fries,
but left over flaky baked potatoes are even better. You
can chop the potatoes into any size cube that pleases you,
but I coarsely mash them leaving lots of lumps.
Chopped parsley……………………....
I don’t measure but I use a generous amount – at
least a couple tablespoons, Don’t be chintzy,
this is not a garnish. It is an important part of
the recipe.
A little melted butter……………………fat
is a very important ingredient in hash and it is not even
mentioned in most hash recipes. If you use real corned
beef or ham the meat should be about 20% finely - very finely
- chopped fat. If I’m making chicken hash I skim
the fat off the water I boiled the chicken in and add it
to the mix. Canned corn beef, fish and crab don’t
have enough fat so I dribble in some melted butter…mmmm
good. I also fry my hash in butter and you should
too.
Salt and pepper………………………… to
taste. If you’re using real corned beef or ham – taste
it first because it may have enough salt.
Okay, let’s put it together
Just mix the meat, potatoes, parsley and melted butter
in a bowl – taste it – and add salt and pepper. Put
a generous amount of butter in a skillet and get it hot over
medium-high heat (or high-medium heat if you prefer) and
add the hash. You can add a little oil to the butter
if you are scared of burnt butter. Fry it until it’s
nice and browned on the bottom and crispy around the edges. Don’t
pester it! If you keep moving it around and fooling with
it - it ‘s not going to brown properly. Oh, you
can either cook it in one big batch or form it into patties
--- your call. When it’s browned and crisped
to your liking turn it and do the other side. Bing!!
You just made some great hash. Top it with a couple
of poached or fried eggs and you have a world class breakfast. Ooops,
I almost forgot. If you’re gonna use left over
fish or crab you can mix a raw beaten egg into the mix – form
it into patties and dip them in bread crumbs. Call
them ‘Alma’s Kountry Kitchen Kroquettes’ – they
make a great and economical dinner dish.
Tell me how it turns out
Spencer