'Authentic’
Tortilla Soup

Disclaimer!!!
This is not a photo of my tortilla soup.
This photo was stolen off the internet.
My tortilla soup is actually a lot prettier.....
Parts
List
Chicken
stock……..a couple of quarts - I think that’s
8 cups.
I
make it from scratch at Felix’, but I see no reason you can’t
use a canned stock, if you have one you like. If you want to make it
from scratch just put a half chicken (I usually throw in a few whole
cloves of garlic) in 2 quarts of water, bring it to a boil, turn down
the heat and simmer it covered for about an hour. If there is a whole
lot of fat floating on top you can skim some of it off. I like to see
some globules floating though – adds ‘authenticity’.
Even the very richest chicken stock tastes like dishwater until you
add salt. So add salt until it tastes like soup then strain it through
a colander, putting the chicken aside until it’s cool enough to
handle. When it has cooled, remove the meat from the carcass- shred
it or chop it into the size you like and reserve it for assembly.
If
you want a more elegant broth you can strain it through some cheesecloth
or even a kitchen towel (I rarely bother with this unless I’m
expecting the President of Mexico or Madonna or somebody to drop in
for dinner).
Crispy
tortilla strips……..I cut mine into strips about
2 inches long and about the width of fettuccine, others prefer the wider
lasagna width and some apostates even cut them into squares or triangles—hey,
it’s okay with me. Gonna taste good however you cut them. Fry
them in 350-degree oil till they are browned and crispy and put them
aside until assembly.
Chicken……..This
is optional. About half the tortilla soups I’ve eaten have chicken
and about half not. We use the meat in ours and everyone knows we did
not use a canned or concentrated or powdered stock.
Vegetables…..This
is also optional. Most recipes do not call for any vegetables. I use
veggies, because the first tortilla soup I ever ate (in Merida, Yucatan)
did and thought it was ‘authentic’. It also reminds
me of my mom’s chicken soup. For this amount of soup I would use
1 medium zucchini or chayote, 1 carrot, 1 small onion and one small
poblano chile (seeded and deveined) cut into pieces about the size of
a dime and parboiled ‘al dente’ then set aside for later
assembly.
‘AL
DENTE’?? That reminds me that it is time for my
obligatory attack on those self-proclaimed celebrity chefs.WHAT
A BUNCH OF IDIOTS!
If you watch the food channel you have noticed that every single one
of these half-wits that gather every day for their self-congratulatory
circle jerk uses the phrase ‘al dente’ at least twice each
program. I was eating at a local Italian restaurant recently and there
was a real big screw up in the kitchen…all the pasta was coming
out crunchy – I mean really crunchy- I mean danger of cutting
your gums crunchy…and not a single word of complaint. All around
me idiots were saying ” Mmmmm.... ‘al dente’ ”
I
don’t know about you but I’m sick and tired of raw carrots,
crunchy spaghetti, and bloody chicken. To all those celebrity chefs
I say "al dente" this!!!
So
for future reference al dente does not mean RAW, al
dente does not mean CRUNCHY and al dente does not mean
BLOODY!! ALL al dente means is ‘NOT MUSHY’.
Now
where was I? Oh yeah, tortilla soup.
Avocado……one medium avocado ripe, but not
mushy cut into cubes about the size of your little fingernail should
be enough for about six bowls
Dried
chiles……..I use 4 or 5 guajillo chiles because
I think they have the prettiest color but you can use pasilla, ancho,
mulatto or whatever dried red chile you like. We’re using these
guys for the color not for heat or flavor so slice them open and remove
the seeds and veins. Barely cover the chiles with water and let them
soak for 45 minutes or so, then run them through a blender (if you need
more liquid add some of the reserved stock) If you’d like to no
more about cooking with dried chiles go to my web site (www.felixcabosanlucas.com)
click on recipes, then click on cooking with dried chiles. You’ll
know more than any of your friends.
Cheese…………We
use ‘queso fresco’ broken into pieces about the size of
a kidney bean but most restaurants use grated jack cheese. Queso fresco
is a fresh Mexican cheese, snow white in color and about the texture
of feta cheese – I think it looks real pretty in the soup and
besides when you get a big spoon full of jack cheese it’s like
eating a bad cheese laden pizza. I don’t know about you but when
I’m eating soup I don’t want to do a whole lot of chewing.
So don’t overdo the cheese. It’s not available down here
but I think a nice fresh mozzarella would be real good and in central
Mexico they are apt to use a grated Chihuahua cheese (sort of like a
white cheddar)
Garnish………..a
dollop of sour cream and a sprig of cilantro although we use a sprig
of epazote (a Mexican herb that is probably not available where you
are).
Putting
it all together…….
Put
the reserved chicken stock back on the stove and bring it to a simmer.
Add the chicken, the pureed chiles and the parboiled veggies you want
the soup to be very, very hot because we’re going to be adding
a lot of room temperature ingredients and we wouldn’t want to
serve cold soup—would we?
If
you are using grated cheese, put about a heaping tablespoon in the bottom
of each bowl. If you’re using a crumbled cheese wait for further
instructions. Add the avocado and now, the crumbled cheese.
Okay,
garnish and serve. Let me know how it turns out.
Oh, one more thing……this is a thin broth soup so the sour
cream probably won’t float. So If I’m using a deep bowl-
like at the restaurant – I don’t use the sour cream- don’t
like the way it looks. If I’m using a wider shallow bowl the sour
cream sits on top of the tortillas and looks real pretty with the sprig
of something green. Keep it in mind.