Newsletter for April, 2004
Issue 24

 

Today's Recipe
TORTILLA SOUP

Don't pay the ransom, I've escaped!!

Nah - I wasn't really kidnapped--- my stupid computer self destructed and I lost everything on it, including your addresses..............and that's why there has been no newsletter for such a long time. That and I just haven't felt like writing anything.

Anyway, I got a new computer, new programs, new everything and I hate it. I hate windows and I hate Netscape. A lot of time and energy and I think I salvaged most of the addresses -- I lost about a thousand or so.

If yours is one of the lost addresses, you won't receive this. So if you don't get this -- let me know and I'll put you right back on the list.

When I finally got back on line I had 9,127 new messages. Since I don't know near that many people, I assumed that a lot of you were writing because you missed me and my stupid newsletter ....

WRONG!

Exactly 3 of the messages were from someone known to me, the other 9,124 were trying to sell me Viagra, Extra Strength Viagra, New Improved Viagra, Super Viagra, Generic Viagara or Organic Viagra. I got to wondering how I got on all those stupid lists. I'm thinking' that one of you people blabbed - and you should be ashamed of yourself. There are some things that are best kept private. And besides, I don't need any kind of Viagra. I mean what good's a pestle with no mortar??
Now to the task at hand...
 

TORTILLA SOUP

 
I get lots and lots of requests for recipes, usually a straightforward request. However the requests for a Tortilla soup recipe often ask for an 'authentic' recipe. I assume this is so because every restaurant seems to make it differently. That’s because, I believe, there is no single 'authentic' recipe. Oh, there is some commonality in the recipes – they all call for crispy fried tortilla chips—they all call for chicken stock --they all use some kind of cheese and almost all call for avocado. Some are clear and others a beautiful ruby red. I like the way the red soup looks and that’s the way I do it. So without further ado I’m going to tell you how I make it at Felix’ and forevermore this will be known as the


'Authentic' Felix Tortilla Soup Recipe.


But first some reader response...

 

Buen Dia.

I visited lovely Los Cabos just last week, and I am not exaggerating when I say Felix's was the best food I've ever had in Mexico. I got a group of people from my hotel to go for dinner by raving about it, but it was Sunday and you were closed. I had specifically wanted to ask (with the help of my incomplete span-eng dictionary) if the chef would write down the recipe for the Red Mole for me. Had no idea there was a website!

Please post the recipe for the Red Mole dish on the website, with all the specific brands and origins that complete it best. I've had mole sauce in the states and don't think I will ever be able to have it there again, it will be so disappointing. Also I would love the recipe for the Chipoltle salsa. Will reward with loyal patronage next time I'm in Cabo, and word of mouth publicity.

Loyally,
Kecia

Thanks Kecia,

Jeezze I can’t believe that I have never posted a chipotle salsa recipe, Sorry. I guarantee the next newsletter will have a couple chipotle recipes. Chipotles (or chilpotles) are really good in fruit salsas. Check out my pineapple/chipotle salsa at www.felixcabosanlucas.com. Moles are tough to make. Real labor intensive. I'm working on a recipe that will be real tasty, real Mexican and a lot easier to make than Diana Kennedy’s great recipe which starts out "plant the chiles and build a drying rack..."

spencer

 



We have just returned from Los Cabos and had a wonderful time. Is there a place where I can get an authentic recipe for tortilla soup?

Rosemary

Rosemary,
As near as I can tell there is no such thing as an ‘authentic’ recipe for tortilla soup. Anyway I've gotten a lot of requests for a tortilla soup recipe so I've decided that will be my next newsletter. I've added your name to the mailing list. You should have a great recipe shortly.

Spencer


 

Felix,

We haven't heard from you in awhile and are hoping you are well. We have made the Mexican bbq a few times now and really like it. We'll see you at the end of April.
Tom & Debi Duff

Tom & Deb
Yeah, I’m okay, thanks for the letter. Next time you do the BBQ you can give them tortilla soup too.
Spencer


 

Have you been sending out any newsletters lately - I sure haven't received any and I enjoy them so much.
D. Martin, Sask/Canada.


This is the first one in a while, but I’m back on track
Spencer



Dear Felix,

What happened, your monthly email newsletter that I have been receiving for almost a year, quit coming. I miss it, can you please put me back on your list. It brings back that little part of Cabo that I don't get in Seattle.
Thanks,
Paul Verschueren

Paul,
Sorry. It will never happen again.
Spencer



Hi, there! Just wanted to thank you for your awesome Asada Roja recipe which was recently posted in "Chile Pepper" Magazine. The salsa is indeed my favorite, and, until now, I have been unsuccessful in getting a recipe. I've made the salsa about eight times now, and each time I make it, it gets better and better!!

Thanks for sharing and I've enjoyed your website at felixcabosanlucas.com. Keep up the awesome cooking and hopefully one day we can visit your restaurant.
Be blessed!
Shellye Pruitt

 

Thanks Shellye, it’s my favorite too and I look forward to seeing you down here.
spencer


 

Hello!
Question for you. When my husband and I were in Cabo last April, we enjoyed a cheese that was used liberally in many dishes. It had the look and consistency of Feta, but we were told it was a local cheese. Can you tell me what the cheese is and if it's possible to find it in the US? I live in northern NJ and might be able to find some ethnic markets...Thanks!
-Lisa

Lisa, I'll give it a try. The cheese you're looking for is probably not going to be available anywhere but in a Mexican neighborhood. I've never seen this type of cheese in an American market or for that matter in a yuppie cheese store either. 'Queso Fresco' is what is most commonly used here in Baja. Looks and acts a lot like feta but is much blander. There are any number of white crumbly cheeses available, but depending on where you are, they go by many different names 'Anejo' and 'queso seco' among the most common. I think that your best bet will be to locate an ethnic store that has a selection of Mexican cheeses and tell the clerk what you're looking for. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
spencer

 

 

'Authentic’ Tortilla Soup


Disclaimer!!!
This is not a photo of my tortilla soup.
This photo was stolen off the internet.
My tortilla soup is actually a lot prettier.....

Parts List

Chicken stock……..a couple of quarts - I think that’s 8 cups.

I make it from scratch at Felix’, but I see no reason you can’t use a canned stock, if you have one you like. If you want to make it from scratch just put a half chicken (I usually throw in a few whole cloves of garlic) in 2 quarts of water, bring it to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer it covered for about an hour. If there is a whole lot of fat floating on top you can skim some of it off. I like to see some globules floating though – adds ‘authenticity’. Even the very richest chicken stock tastes like dishwater until you add salt. So add salt until it tastes like soup then strain it through a colander, putting the chicken aside until it’s cool enough to handle. When it has cooled, remove the meat from the carcass- shred it or chop it into the size you like and reserve it for assembly.

If you want a more elegant broth you can strain it through some cheesecloth or even a kitchen towel (I rarely bother with this unless I’m expecting the President of Mexico or Madonna or somebody to drop in for dinner).

Crispy tortilla strips……..I cut mine into strips about 2 inches long and about the width of fettuccine, others prefer the wider lasagna width and some apostates even cut them into squares or triangles—hey, it’s okay with me. Gonna taste good however you cut them. Fry them in 350-degree oil till they are browned and crispy and put them aside until assembly.

Chicken……..This is optional. About half the tortilla soups I’ve eaten have chicken and about half not. We use the meat in ours and everyone knows we did not use a canned or concentrated or powdered stock.

Vegetables…..This is also optional. Most recipes do not call for any vegetables. I use veggies, because the first tortilla soup I ever ate (in Merida, Yucatan) did and thought it was ‘authentic’. It also reminds me of my mom’s chicken soup. For this amount of soup I would use 1 medium zucchini or chayote, 1 carrot, 1 small onion and one small poblano chile (seeded and deveined) cut into pieces about the size of a dime and parboiled ‘al dente’ then set aside for later assembly.

‘AL DENTE’?? That reminds me that it is time for my obligatory attack on those self-proclaimed celebrity chefs.WHAT A BUNCH OF IDIOTS!
If you watch the food channel you have noticed that every single one of these half-wits that gather every day for their self-congratulatory circle jerk uses the phrase ‘al dente’ at least twice each program. I was eating at a local Italian restaurant recently and there was a real big screw up in the kitchen…all the pasta was coming out crunchy – I mean really crunchy- I mean danger of cutting your gums crunchy…and not a single word of complaint. All around me idiots were saying ” Mmmmm.... ‘al dente’ ”

I don’t know about you but I’m sick and tired of raw carrots, crunchy spaghetti, and bloody chicken. To all those celebrity chefs I say "al dente" this!!!

So for future reference al dente does not mean RAW, al dente does not mean CRUNCHY and al dente does not mean BLOODY!! ALL al dente means is ‘NOT MUSHY’.

Now where was I? Oh yeah, tortilla soup.


Avocado……one medium avocado ripe, but not mushy cut into cubes about the size of your little fingernail should be enough for about six bowls

Dried chiles……..I use 4 or 5 guajillo chiles because I think they have the prettiest color but you can use pasilla, ancho, mulatto or whatever dried red chile you like. We’re using these guys for the color not for heat or flavor so slice them open and remove the seeds and veins. Barely cover the chiles with water and let them soak for 45 minutes or so, then run them through a blender (if you need more liquid add some of the reserved stock) If you’d like to no more about cooking with dried chiles go to my web site (www.felixcabosanlucas.com) click on recipes, then click on cooking with dried chiles. You’ll know more than any of your friends.

Cheese…………We use ‘queso fresco’ broken into pieces about the size of a kidney bean but most restaurants use grated jack cheese. Queso fresco is a fresh Mexican cheese, snow white in color and about the texture of feta cheese – I think it looks real pretty in the soup and besides when you get a big spoon full of jack cheese it’s like eating a bad cheese laden pizza. I don’t know about you but when I’m eating soup I don’t want to do a whole lot of chewing. So don’t overdo the cheese. It’s not available down here but I think a nice fresh mozzarella would be real good and in central Mexico they are apt to use a grated Chihuahua cheese (sort of like a white cheddar)

Garnish………..a dollop of sour cream and a sprig of cilantro although we use a sprig of epazote (a Mexican herb that is probably not available where you are).

 

Putting it all together…….

Put the reserved chicken stock back on the stove and bring it to a simmer. Add the chicken, the pureed chiles and the parboiled veggies you want the soup to be very, very hot because we’re going to be adding a lot of room temperature ingredients and we wouldn’t want to serve cold soup—would we?

If you are using grated cheese, put about a heaping tablespoon in the bottom of each bowl. If you’re using a crumbled cheese wait for further instructions. Add the avocado and now, the crumbled cheese.

Okay, garnish and serve. Let me know how it turns out.


Oh, one more thing……this is a thin broth soup so the sour cream probably won’t float. So If I’m using a deep bowl- like at the restaurant – I don’t use the sour cream- don’t like the way it looks. If I’m using a wider shallow bowl the sour cream sits on top of the tortillas and looks real pretty with the sprig of something green. Keep it in mind.