January 2003, Issue 15

I know...I'm a cook not an economist, but I have as much right to bitch as any one else. If one gets all their info from TV they can be sure (according to administration spokesmen) that everything is just fine. The recession is over, deficit spending is good, and the country is in great shape. HELLO!! It's very apparent to me that none of the Spokesmen are in a tourist-oriented business that is entirely dependent on the health of the American Economy for their livelihood. You guys want to know what shape the economy is in -- ask someone in business in Cabo San Lucas. When the American economy (especially California) gets the sniffles we all come down with freakin' Legionnaire's disease. I believe that the first thing to get cut out when the US economy weakens is 'Breakfast in Cabo San Lucas'. Not to be completely negative, I guess we can be thankful that the very rich continue to do well. Enough whining...let's talk about...


FLAME-ROASTED PEPPERS

If you watch any cooking shows or eat in any trendy restaurants, you are well aware that flame-roasted salsas and flame-roasted veggies of all kinds are really hip and cool -- the very latest in new cuisine...WRONG!! Folks have been eating delicious flame-roasted stuff every since the discovery of fire.

Most of the celebrity chefs will tell you to roast your peppers in the broiler. This is a really bad idea and I'll tell you why. The broiler is the very hottest part of your oven, so when you put the peppers close to the flame to blacken it does a pretty good job. The problem is when you turn the peppers over to blacken the other side the first side continues to cook in a very hot oven so that by the time the peppers are completely blackened they are also way, way over-cooked.

The secret to plump, juicy, great tasting flame-roasted peppers is to do them just like you would roast a marshmallow. This means that if you have an electric stove you can forget about it. Although you can get great results from a barbecue if the grate will let you get really close to the fire. Those among you with gas stoves -- here's how you do it. When it's pepper roasting time at my house I use every burner, so I have 8 or so peppers going at a time, but I suggest you start with just one nice green, red, or yellow bell pepper.

When selecting peppers to roast look for smooth, shiny peppers with no breaks in the skin and a nice stem to hold on to. The heavier the pepper (high water content) the better the results.

Turn a burner on high and hold the pepper in the flame until the skin is completely black and blistered then, holding the stem, turn the pepper and keep repeating until the whole pepper looks like one of those marshmallows your 3-year-old roasted. A real lump of coal.

Now most of the 'celebrity' chefs will tell you to NOT peel the peppers under running water because you will wash off the delicious charred taste WRONG! WRONG! WRONG! Flavor is not water soluble. Think about it -- we all wash our vegetables and greens, yet they still taste like asparagus and salad. If you need further proof, try to wash the meat taste off a pork chop or the chocolate taste off a candy bar. Anyway, just hold the pepper under slowly running water and gently rub all the black skin off. If you don't get all of it, no problem -- a few black spots only adds to the rustic authenticity of your dish. Then cut a slit in the pepper up around the stem and remove the seeds and stringy membranes.

Okay, now you got the flame-roasted peppers -- what do you do with them? I pull the stem off, open the pepper and lay it flat in a bowl or jar, sprinkle some chopped garlic on it, then some good olive oil and another layer of peppers, garlic and oil and so on 'til I have a bowl or jar of peppers marinating in garlic and olive oil which I stick in the fridge and use as needed. Great on a chicken sandwich on a nice fresh baguette or cut into strips and added to almost any salad.

Use them in an antipasto with some sliced provolone cheese and Italian cold cuts. You can throw some in a blender with mayonnaise for a delicious 'home-made flame-roasted red pepper mayonnaise'. Add some chopped parsley and green onions and call it 'home-made flame roasted red pepper mayonnaise aux fine herbs'.

For a summertime lunch you can leave the peppers whole -- just slit them down one side and stuff them with some chicken salad or tuna salad and serve them on a bed of green salad. This also works great with jalapeño chiles -- just pick out the largest ones. Once you get out the seeds and veins they shouldn't be too, too hot. Try stuffing these puppies with some cream cheese with chopped bacon and green onions -- even better some cream cheese and smoked fish, mmmmmmmm.

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Dear Felix:
My wife and I had the Drunken Beef at your restaurant last week. Can we have this recipe? Thanks.
Bryan Lee

Bryan,
You bet. I haven't worked out the exact recipe yet, but I can tell you in a general way how to make it. This recipe should serve 4-6 people.

Get about 2 pounds of lean beef (cut into the size you want). We use sirloin, but chuck will work nicely. Brown the meat over a high heat in a little oil--don't be timid, you want the meat VERY browned. When it's good and browned turn down the stove and toss in a couple of shots of tequila. Then add a couple of chopped or grated jalapenos, some chopped garlic, a chopped onion or two (the size is up to you) and a couple of chopped tomatoes. The very red color comes from a couple of dried chiles (We use guajillo chiles, but you can use anchos, pasillos or mulatos) soaked in hot water for a half hour or so then blended with the water. Add the blended chiles and the liquid to the mix. Put a lid on it and simmer it over low heat for at least an hour, checking occasionally to make sure the liquid doesn't evaporate. It's done when the meat is falling apart tender. You can also add potatoes for the last half hour or so and call the dish "Puchero de Vaqueros" ("Cowboy Stew") Let me know how it turns out.
Spencer

Dear Spencer
I'll try that. It's pretty much how I made the copy cat version. I noticed you did not include spices (hmmm). Rishab's dad did that when he gave me the recipe for the peppered lamb. He said "no spices" with a sneaky grin on his face.
Bryan Lee

Bryan
If you'd like a more complicated flavor - you could add a few tablespoons of achiote paste dissolved in water. The paste is a blend of chiles and spices -- very red in color. You'll probably have to hunt down a Mexican grocery, though.

Dear Mama:
We came to your restaurant while we were visiting Cabo San Lucas last July. After our first taste of your french toast, we came to you for breakfast the remaining mornings while we stayed in Cabo. We would like to treat our family to a Christmas breakfast with your famous french toast. Please forward your recipe, we would be most appreciative.
Happy Holidays,
Lee & Lori

Lee and Lori,
Sure, glad to oblige. First, you have to have a loaf of good unsliced bread. If you can find a good Jewish bakery I recommend Challah (Jewish egg bread), and it's better if the bread is at least a couple of days old. With a serrated bread knife cut a very thin slice but do not cut all the way through, then make another very thin slice going all the way through. You now have a slice of bread that you can open like a book -- open the book and place a slice of cream cheese in the middle and close the book. Go ahead and make as many pieces as you need for the meal. 3 pieces are usually a generous serving for an adult.

THE BATTER
The batter can be just as simple as beaten eggs, but the eggs will only coat the bread and we want it to soak in some‹so you have to thin it a little. You can thin it with water or milk or cream-- I thin it with orange juice and add some orange zest -- If you want you can also add some sugar, Vanilla and maybe a shot of orange liqueur, but it's not critical. Don't just dip the bread--soak it pretty good.

COOKING THE TOAST
This is probably the most important step, if you cook it too hot - when it's done on the outside the inside will be cold and raw and the cheese will not be melted. So cook it in butter over low/medium heat. When they are golden brown, arrange them on the plate and , pour the topping over and serve.

THE TOPPING
The topping is a variation of Bananas Foster and is also great in crepes or over ice cream. You want to use about one small banana per serving. Slice the bananas and start them sauteeing in a lot of butter (unsalted butter is probably best). Toss in some sugar - don't be stingy, this is a sweet, very sweet topping. Saute the bananas, butter and sugar, stirring occasionally, over a pretty hot flame. You want the bananas to brown, but not burn and you want the sugar to caramelize and brown, but not burn. When all the sugar and butter and bananas are a rich golden color we flambe the mix with about an ounce of orange liqueur. Be careful to take the pan away from the flame when you toss in the rum because it is highly flammable and flame can run right up the pouring liquid and catch the bottle on fire. You want enough liquid in the pan to make it syrupy. If there is not enough liquid, add some orange juice. Then toss in a handful of chopped walnuts or pecans, heat them through and pour over the French Toast. Bingo! You've just made the world's best French toast. Let me know how it turns out. You can also make the topping with any fresh berries or Mango. I you make it with bananas you might want to use a dark rum, like meyers, in place of the orange liqueur.

I post lots of recipes on my web site including this one (www.felixcabosanlucas.com). I've also taken the liberty of adding your name to my newsletter list (Recipes, attacks on celebrity chefs and a little Cabo Gossip)
Happy Holidays to y'all.
Spencer Moore

Dear Spencer,
I have been looking for two good spanish recipes forever and I do not know why I have not asked you sooner. I want to know how to make spanish rice...a light kind...with a very mild flavor, not that really heavy dark kind with all the peas and carrots in it. I also want to know how to make tortilla soup...the broth kind not the heavy thick kind....am I giving you a good description? Can you understand what I am looking for? and most importantly, can you help me at all?? Looking forward to hearing from you!!
Mariam

PS I am sorry to hear about your stroke and I hope you are recovering well.

Hi Mariam,
I don't much like that heavy pea-laden stuff either. What I do is just make some nice fluffy plain white rice. In a separate pan I saute chopped garlic and some finely chopped red and green bell peppers- chopped tomatoes are an option as well--When all the veggies are done simply add the pre-cooked rice to the pan ands sprinkles in some chopped parsley or cilantro. It's colorful, tasty and light. For the light, brothy tortilla soup you start with a really rich chicken stock. Make it or buy it in a can or jar. To the stock add a bay leaf, maybe a little chopped garlic, some chopped onion and Zucchini and a nice ripe tomato or two-- I like to throw in some chopped poblano chile as well. Simmer it until all the veggies are done-- you should have a pretty tasty chicken vegetable soup. For the garnish- have some hot fried tortilla strips ready and some grated Jack cheese and some nice Avocado slices and maybe some sprigs of cilantro Ladle the piping -hot soup into the bowls Add the hot tortilla strips and sprinkle the cheese on the top -thn lay a slice or two of the avocado and a little cilantaro on top and serve. You can also have some fresh salsa Mexicana on the table -- a spoonful or two spices the soup up pretty good. Let me know how it all turns out.
spencer

Spencer,
Last Saturday saw me busy in the kitchen with this concoction. I had never used tomatillos in chili verde before...usually just an avalanche of anaheims, plenty of garlic, onions, cumin, and good ground pork and various dry chili pequin, etc, etc...Hope you enjoy these photos of the process and no drooling on the keyboard!
Tom Reier
Santa Rosa, CA

BEAUTIFUL! Here's a quick version for you to try -- good, too. Cut some pork into bite size hunks, lightly flour them and brown them in some neutral tasting oil- corn or safflower will work. In another pan put some washed and peeled tomatillos, a couple of peeled and quartered onions, and a bunch of Jalapeno chiles with the stems removed, a bay leaf or two (Optional) -- cover with cold water and bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer 'til cooked. It'll probably all be done when the chiles turn from bright green to olive drab. Run the whole mess through the blender and add it to the pan with the browned pork and simmer it for an hour or so 'til the pork is so tender it almost falls apart. A great way to deal with left over pork chops or roast.
Spencer

Dear Felix/Spencer:
My wife and I have just returned from one of the BEST vacations we've ever had. CSL was absolutely wonderful, and Felix/Mama's was a big part. We had a cyber coupon for a free OJ at Mama's Royal Cafe. Since we had seen the menu on the Internet (and very much liked what we saw) we decided that it might be worth the 2 mile walk from our resort. You already know the answer as to whether it was worth it or not!!! Since that was so good, and since we had a cyber coupon for free margarittas at Felix's, we decided to make the 2 mile trek again for dinner. When Carlos brought our free margarittas, I thought my search was finally over! 20 years ago I had the "benchmark" 'rita in Del Mar, CA. Ever since then I have searched margaritta-ville around the country for anything that would come close. No Luck. Until now! I can say with all confidence that Felix's margaritta was the best I've had in 20 years!!! In fact, after the free ones we actually paid money for two more! Felix/Mama's had the complete package. Thanks so much, and we will see y'all again! Thanks again for sating our Tru-Mex (not Tex-Mex) tastebuds.
Gary and Ann Bortz
Little Rock, AR, USA

ps: I'm a nuclear scientist by trade, but to eat a Mama's/Felix' more often, I'd learn to wash dishes!

Thanks a lot... I love hearin' this stuff!
Spencer